“Don’t just do things to be average, do them to be legendary.”
The Italian legend Hans Kammerlander (60) has done all the right things to become a legend in the history of mountaineering. After climbing 12 8000ers plus Shisha Pangma central without supplementary Oxygen, he is all set to conquer his biggest fear that is the last 8000m Mountain – Mt. Manaslu along with North Tyrolean alpinist Stephan Keck (44).
Back in 1991, Hans lost two of his closest friends Friedl Mutschlechner and Karl Grobrubatscher while descending from Mt. Manaslu. Hans after returning from a successful expedition to K2, announced in a press meeting, “I will not go for Manaslu, the last one to complete my 14 eight thousands”.
However recently he announced on his blog that he would ascend the mountain now saying, “I have decided to go back to Manaslu again. That mountain where, on a tragic and fateful day, I lost two good friends in 1991. I am of the opinion today that I have waited so much too long. Perhaps, however, the time is now really ready for it. Together with my North Tyrolean friend and partner Stefan Keck, a stranger colleague from Stans, I will start an expedition to the Manaslu in early October. We are accompanied by an Austrian film team, which has been reconstructing important phases of my life for several weeks. This documentary feature film will then be released in autumn 2018…”
Hans and Stephen will be going with a movie crew in order to shoot the film – ‘Manaslu – Mountain of The Spirit’ which would reflect the personality of a man who has dedicated all his life to the great mountains and in this journey has suffered great many losses and experiences tragedies as well as a lot of triumphs.
The duo this time would climb the 8163 meter high summit from the South end (last time Hans started from North end) and would descend back a new route by skies. Rajendra Lama, Managing Director at Friends Adventure Team has organised the expedition. He said, “After 26 years, ascent on Mt Manaslu this time does not only challenge Kammerlander but also confronts him with the tragedy from 1991, which he has not been able to overcome yet.”
Legend as he is, he has climbed all the 8000ers without supplemental oxygen. In 1984, he became the first climber along with his partner Messner to traverse two 8000m peaks (Gasherbrum II and I) before descending back to Base Camp. He also holds the Guinness World Record for the fastest ascent of Everest without supplemental oxygen in a duration of 16h 45min. He also holds a record for fastest ascent from Everest North Base Camp.
His first ski descent took place in 1990 from the summit of Nanga Parbat. Hans climbed Shishapangma in 1996 but unfortunately he reached the central summit (8008m) and not the main summit of 8027m. To this he said in an interview, “If I reach the summit of Manaslu, I – for me personally – would have completed the 14 eight-thousanders. Because the (8008 meters high) Central Summit of Shishapangma indeed is an eight-thousander. In case of success at that time I had the chance to become the fourth climber on all 14 eight-thousanders. I am interested in other stories, trying something new, not only being listed.”
After so many years, it must have taken a lot of courage to go back to that dreaded mountain where he was scarred emotionally for life.